Upper Palatinate – Austria – Switzerland – Italy – Slovenia

Prolog

Packing! Yes, that's what I have to do this evening. Although 'packing' is actually the wrong word. For many years I have developed this 'peculiarity' of writing lists for travelling. And so it happens that there is already a list for this planned trip. It was written last year when I set off towards the Grossglockner at about the same time of year.
So dig out the list from last year and simply put, throw, place... the things on the list into the DSR/X's case. Just put it in.
It's nice that there is suddenly so much storage space available compared to the SR/F. Traveling with an SUV ...
The last official act for this evening is to start charging to 110%. "Extended Range" is what Zero calls it. These 110% should take me to Holzkirchen by the shortest route tomorrow morning - from there the Alps-fun can begin.

Day 1 – Upper Palatinate to Stelvio

Thursday morning, Assumption Day 2024, I set the alarm for 5:30 a.m. That wouldn't have been necessary, because I wake up on my own 5 minutes earlier. I'm ready to go. I get myself up to operating temperature with a small first breakfast with plenty of coffee and cereal. At just after 6 a.m. I'm sitting on the DSR/X. It doesn't need to warm up. The Zero is always at operating temperature. Not far from home, the sun then makes its way out to greet me in the morning.

It looks like the weather will be good over the next few days. Temperatures of up to 30 degrees are forecast, but that's better than having to prepare for rain.

I'll take the A9 for the journey to Munich. If there are any traffic jams today, they'll be heading north. The summer holidays are currently coming to an end there. I'll make a quick pit stop just before the motorway exit in Denkendorf. I'll get rid of the excess fluids from the coffee I had an hour ago.

The warm air and the thunderstorms from last night have created fascinating clouds of fog. It almost feels like we've driven through a car wash.

I take the motorway journey to Holzkirchen at a leisurely pace in the right lane. No rushing, no arguments about who wants to go faster. After all, I am on the journey and not on the run. After 90 minutes, this part of the journey is completed. I almost wrote 'stupid part', but it wasn't actually that. There was hardly any traffic and so even here I could enjoy the view. Shortly after Ingolstadt, the Alps could already be seen in the distance.

The Zero is now going to the charging station. It arrived with 9% remaining capacity, which was a perfect landing. I'm having a second breakfast at the bakery in Holzkirchen.

After about an hour, two croissants, a cappuccino and almost 10 kWh, we continue towards Mittenwald.

I leave the Sylvenstein reservoir to the left to get to the toll road between Vorderriß and Wallgau. We were here on the Isar with our parents as children. Back then, more than 40 years ago, we walked barefoot through the water, but now we have to study the signs. Is it still closed season for any bird species? Everything is fine, entering is permitted.

After Mittenwald, I turn right towards Leutasch. Here, the real “mountain feeling” comes up for the first time. Curves, inclines, vistas. Wonderful. From Buchener Höhe, the view suddenly opens up into the Inn Valley, 600 meters below. At Imst, I head into Arzl in the Pitztal.

The view shortly after Pillerhöhe down into the Upper Inn Valley is impressive. At the Bergkastel cable car in Nauders, I connect the DSR/X to the charging station again. Electron pushing is the order of the day.

But vehicles with 2 HP are also on the road here.

My plan was actually to drive over Glurns and Prad to the Stelvio Pass. Shortly after Trafoi, however, a helicopter is hovering over the road up to Stelvio. That doesn’t bode well. Somewhere near turn 40, all traffic comes to a standstill. Nothing moves anymore. After the fire brigade, rescue service, and police pass us waiting, I consider taking option 2 for the onward journey.

So, turn around and head back to Prad and Glurns to turn towards Switzerland. This decision seems to be a stroke of luck because around 5:30 PM, I am almost the only one on the Umbrail Pass.

From the customs house on the Umbrail Pass at about 2500 meters, it’s another 3.5 kilometers and 300 meters in altitude until I reach the top of Stelvio. You wouldn’t necessarily expect it, but here at Stelvio Pass is the highest charging station in Europe. I believe this is actually the highest parking spot you can get here.

If someone is looking for this charging station: It can be found on the back side of the Tibet Hut.

Not only does the DSR/X need to be fed up here. There’s something for me too: sausage with sauerkraut and mustard in a Vinschgerl. I almost feel at home. Today would be the church fair in the neighboring village, and there is traditionally always sausage with sauerkraut – but with bread and on a plate. But the 2200 meters difference in altitude cannot be replaced by anything.

Slowly, you notice that the evening is coming. The shadows at Stelvio Pass are getting longer. For me, it’s only down to turn 22 today.

The first night of my journey I spend at the mountain hotel Franzenshöhe.

Day 2 – Stelvio to ‘Somewhere in the Middle of Nowhere’

Friday, 7:30 AM. Breakfast. It’s cool to wake up in the middle of the mountain and, after checkout, first drive down the remaining 26 turns of Stelvio Pass.

As last night from the pass height down to the hotel, there is nothing going on this morning down to Prad. Nothing at all!

From Prad to Naturns, there is quite a bit of traffic on the road. It feels like it’s caused by the farmers managing the fruit stocks. Somehow, the John Deere and Co., which I also know from my home, have shrunk here from ‘washing too hot.’ I like the hustle and bustle. Probably also because it’s still early in the morning, and time is not running away from me.

From Merano, the road suddenly seems deserted. It stays that way until shortly before Bolzano, where I drive directly towards the Messner Mountain Museum and then pass it through a tunnel.

Through Bolzano, it actually goes quite quickly. I follow the Eisack Valley for only a few kilometers until it turns right onto the Breiener Road in Blumau. Suddenly, I have arrived in a completely different world. There is no more traffic and hustle and bustle. Here, I am almost alone on the road. This is probably also because the road, with its narrow and partly over 20% steep sections, is not really suitable for standard traffic. Just right for me on my journey.

Up to the Niger Pass, I overcome more than 1000 meters in altitude in a short time. The reward is a magnificent view of Latemar and Rosengarten.

I make a first stop with a charging opportunity for the DSR/X at the lift parking lot in Karersee. Originally, I had imagined the whole thing to be a bit quieter, but apparently, I am not the only one using the bridge day after Assumption Day for a trip to the mountains.

I watch the hustle and bustle of tourists from a shady spot under a tree. The break is good for body and mind, and if it is crowned with such a fascinating view, then I believe I haven’t done much wrong. This is the way to live.

After about an hour, I continue to Lago di Fedaia at the foot of the Marmolada. The road itself is at about 2000 meters altitude. To get to the Marmolada, another 1300 meters would be necessary – but on foot or by cable car.

From Lago di Fedaia, it’s now 1000 meters down to Caprile. Here again, unlike in San Giovanni di Fassa, which I passed about 25 kilometers ago, there is nothing going on. I just wonder where all the cars and crowds that gathered down in the valley have gone.

Shortly after Caprile, I turn left towards Selva di Cadore and up to Passo di Giau. I am overwhelmed by the brilliant landscape, the beautifully drivable 55 hairpin bends, and again the few vehicles and occupants on the road.

Shortly before the pass, under a blue and white sky, Monte Gusela greets me. The pictures can hardly convey what the area and the weather do to you. The word ‘overwhelmed’ used earlier fits very well.

At the pass itself, I find the vehicles I had just ‘missed.’ But that doesn’t matter. No one tells me that I also have to stop where everyone else does. Just drive a few hundred meters further and enjoy the landscape by the roadside.

Such a fascinating panorama is not an everyday occurrence. As I continue driving, I notice a photographer by the roadside, next to a sign with something like “… voluto una tua foto in moto?” and he is pointing his camera directly at me.

I think to myself with a grin, look at that, there’s actually someone capturing the passersby in pictures. I remembered the photographer by the roadside only when I was looking through the photos I had taken myself a few days later at home.

A bit of searching on the internet actually brought up two photos of me that this photographer had taken by the roadside. I ordered the second one because it perfectly reflects the thought I had while passing by. Brilliant!

I continue to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Here it's already more lively, busier, more traffic. Now I am far from the peace that still prevailed up at Passo di Giau.

But that doesn’t matter because nothing keeps me here. My path leads me further over Passo Tre Croci, through Auronzo di Cadore, until it turns left over Laggio di Cadore towards Lago di Sauris.

In Auronzo di Cadore, the second break of the day is due. Coffee is needed, quickly, something to cool down wouldn’t be bad either, quickly, and if it fits, then electricity wouldn’t be bad either. There’s no rush because we, the DSR/X and I, have time.

A charging station is found in the village center. Activated via app, the electricity flows within seconds. Somehow, this impresses the two young women from Holland, as they struggle for a long time with their PlugShare RFID chip. I try to help, but as the chip doesn’t work at this station, it looks bad for now.

A phone call to a friend helps them out. When I return from refilling my water bottles, the Volkswagen is also connected to the station via CCS and charging.

The Bar Triestina opens just in time for me at 3:30 PM. What can I say, something warm, something cold, and a glass of water. Perfect!

The following 60 kilometers are brilliant. Sella Ciampigotto, Sella di Razzo, and Sella di Rioda are so remote. Up here, at around 1800 meters altitude, I am almost completely alone.

It continues like this until Sauris, where the ‘flag ribbons’ from the church tower still testify to yesterday’s Assumption Day.

Shortly after Sauris, I pass Lago di Sauris, 200 meters lower. Here, I turn left at the dam and continue towards Ampezzo.

The road along the Lumiei Gorge connects Sauris and Ampezzo. In the first part, the route leads me through four narrow two-lane tunnels. There is lighting, but driving on the cobbled and partly wet surface is not really easy. At the bridge over the Torrente Lumiei, which directly connects two tunnels, I stop at the northern end of the bridge on the original road through the gorge.

On the last four kilometers of the route to Ampezzo, there are a few nice tight bends to drive until I arrive back in civilization.

These last 60 kilometers were so much fun, I have to remember them for a repeat.

It’s still 25 kilometers to Zuglio. The area here feels like southern Italy to me. The country seems extremely dry. But that could also be due to the 35°C that the motorcycle reports as the ambient temperature. From Zuglio, on the approach to Paularo, this ‘southern Italian’ feeling suddenly changes. The area is green again. Alpine flair can be felt.

In Paularo, I leave the well-equipped area. The next 18 kilometers will take me to ‘Somewhere in the Middle of Nowhere.’ The Passo del Cason di Lanza / Lanzenpass is a single-lane road that will bring me to 1550 meters altitude. At the beginning, the path runs along a steep slope, partially secured with railings. Every now and then, I catch beautiful views into the valley to my left.

My accommodation for this night is the Malga Cason di Lanza / Lanzer Alm. That’s how I imagined it. Even if the weather is so wonderful, then everything is ok in ‘Somewhere in the Middle of Nowhere’.

For around 70 euros, you get an overnight stay with half board in a single room. Shower and toilet are for communal use in the hallway.

The master of the house is the dog, who also gets a bone from my pork ribs after dinner.

A wonderful second day of my journey ends up here without mobile reception and only the most necessary power supply via generator. There is internet – Elon Musk’s Starlink makes it possible – but only until the generator is turned off for the night. Good night!

Day 3 - Slovenia and Carinthia

I am woken up early on Saturday morning by hikers passing by my window at around 6:30 AM. The sky promises another beautiful day. Breakfast is available from 7:30 AM, either sweet or with sausage and cheese. I opt for the sweet option.

The freshly brewed coffee with warm milk awakens my spirits, just like the day before, and so I find myself at my DSR/X shortly after 8 AM. Ready to go!

The already well-filled parking spaces show that I am apparently late by hiker standards, but continuing without breakfast is not an option.

From ‘Somewhere in the Middle of Nowhere,’ my journey first takes me about 50 kilometers to the Nevea Saddle. I didn’t give much thought to the ZERO’s charge level last night. A short stop on my way will recharge the currently about 50% full battery enough so that I don’t have to worry about charging options while driving through Slovenia. Charging is overrated.

A friendly parking attendant shows me the way to the ‘EV-Charger.’ I use the time at the charging station for a phone call with my loved ones at home. Meanwhile, an electric car pulls up at the other charging station, and two men get out and plug in their vehicle. When I finish my call, I am kindly asked for help with the authorization at the charging station.

The two men from Slovenia are here for hiking and arrived with only 3% remaining capacity. Ad-hoc charging doesn’t seem to work, and lacking other charging tariffs, they would be the ones stranded ‘Somewhere in the Middle of Nowhere.’

We agree that I will start the charging process for the car with one of my charging cards. A calculated amount of 52 euros is paid in advance, and for safety, we exchange phone numbers. As the saying goes: ‘A good deed every day…’

Let’s see if the 52 euros are enough. The bill should be available via the app this evening. I wish them fun on the via ferrata and leave them heading towards Slovenia.

Shortly after Lago del Predil, I reach the Predil Pass, which forms the border between Friuli and Slovenia. My original plan was to turn left after another kilometer and drive up to Mangart. The number of vehicles and signs indicating a closure due to overcrowding direct me further down into the Loška Koritnica Valley.

Maybe I missed something on Mangart, but I’ll save it for a later visit. I want to come back anyway.

At Bovec, I turn into the Soča Valley. This was recommended to me by other motorcyclists when I left Hotel Franzenshöhe.

The 20-kilometer-long route runs directly along the Soča. I have rarely seen such a beautiful river with blue-green water. Waterfalls, rapids, and narrow rock gorges shape the river course. I’m surprised that there aren’t more people here. A few vehicles can be seen. People also enjoy their time by the water – but it’s not very crowded. Impressive.

The road bends slightly to the east, and the first hairpin bends mark the start of another pass. The Vršič Pass is the highest pass in Slovenia. It goes up to 1611 meters. From the south side, the 27 hairpin bends can be driven quite quickly. A pleasure!

It’s different on the north side. Here, the 24 hairpin bends are still paved with granite stones from World War I. The dry weather provides the necessary grip today, but I don’t want to overdo it.

In one of the hairpin bends, there is an opportunity to reverse into a ‘parking spot.’ That’s the advantage when the motorcycle is equipped with a reverse gear.

The Goličica provides an impressive backdrop for the few photos I take up here.

The end of this beautiful area is abruptly marked by Lake Jezero Jasna. In Kranjska Gora, I find myself back in the “here and now.” Tourists, traffic, everything that usually characterizes a beautiful summer day in the Alps. But I’ve experienced plenty of different things in the last three days.

For me, it’s time to say ‘goodbye’ to Slovenia. The Wurzen Pass takes me to Carinthia and then right into civilization in Villach. The ATRIO shopping center is right on the road towards the Nockberge, so I use it to fully charge the DSR/X and treat myself to a pizza.

When I return to the motorcycle, a short conversation with an electric car driver, who also rides a motorcycle, ensues, as often happens. Charging stations are always good for pleasant conversations and meeting nice people.

I leave Villach towards Millstätter See, but turn off again at Puch onto a small road that takes me without much traffic via Glanz and Sirnitz to the first signpost to the Nockalmstraße.

The area here has a completely different flair again, as I have experienced several times in the past few days. The ruggedness gives way to lush greenery that blends harmoniously into the landscape. Shortly after Ebene Reichenau, the toll station for the 34-kilometer-long road through the Nockberge appears.

At Eisentalhöhe, I reach the highest point at 2042 meters. Here, for the first time on my journey, I notice that rain showers are on the way. A few drops and pleasant temperatures below 20°C announce the weather change that will arrive here on Sunday afternoon.

Let’s see if I get home dry tomorrow. Although rain also has its charm, as long as it doesn’t pour down in torrents.

Late in the evening, I receive the bill for the ‘rescue operation’ of the two hikers from Slovenia. The estimate for charging their car was spot on. 84 kWh for 53 euros.

I send a short message via WhatsApp. Within minutes, I receive the following response:

„You are awarded for your help. I manage a small hotel in Goriška Brda. You are invited to come there and you will get the room and breakfast for free.
Thank you again.“

I think I did everything right. What a perfect day!

Day 4 - Journey Home

Sunday morning. Breakfast is available from 7:30 AM. A first look out the window shows a cloudy sky, but according to the weather forecast, it should stay dry until I reach Bavaria. Let’s see… I’ll take it as it comes.

The DSR/X spent the night next to the hotel owner’s SUR-RON in his garage. Charging for free. Thank you very much for that!

At 8 AM, I set off for Obertauern. I didn’t know that the Beatles filmed “Help” here in 1965. They definitely got a nice memorial for it.

A unicorn bids me farewell from the Alps. Otherwise, it’s still quiet. Everything is still calm under the clouds that are slowly dissolving.

After the first 80 kilometers, I arrive in Abtenau, from where I head up to the Postalm. The farewell from the mountains looks impressive here once again. Blue and white skies greet me again.

I continue quickly to avoid the bad weather front as much as possible. Passing Wolfgangsee, Irrsee, KTM in Mattighofen, I reach Braunau and Simbach am Inn. Here, I have lunch, and the DSR/X is charged.

Shortly after Simbach, I get caught in a rain area for 30 minutes. Batten down the hatches and keep going. One last short break just before 'Neustadt an der Donau'. The weather has calmed down again. It looks like I will get home dry for the last 85 kilometers.

The DSR/X, which I swapped for my trusty SR/F four weeks ago, has reliably accompanied me over the past four days

It was cool!

Epilog

Epilogue

• I drove almost exactly 1600 km in the past 4 days.
• Charging costs were 33.73 €.
• This means I had to pay 2.10 € per 100 km.
• On the second and third days, I charged twice each day – but not necessarily from 0 to 100, only as long as I took a break myself. On the arrival day, an additional stop was necessary due to the higher speed. On the return trip, I managed with two charging stops again, but arrived home with an almost empty tank.
• The range of the DSR/X in the mountains at my travel speed is over 220 km.
• The fuel – whether gasoline, diesel, or electricity – is secondary. It’s always about the ride.

In the end, I am now quite overwhelmed by all the impressions I gathered on my journey through Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, and Slovenia.

I see it as a wonderful privilege that I can and am allowed to do something like this.

💫✌